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Questions and answers about the HP-8 (Part 1)  


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Joined: 10 months ago
Posts: 16
04/11/2020 11:38 pm  
  • I noticed that the holes in both the 30 and the 50 degree blades are not drilled straight. 
    • For this, could you take a look to see if the irons were small tapered edges on one side. This could be what makes it "looks" not straight. It shouldn't affect the functionality of the plane as there's a tolerance for the hole and the mating piece on the plane.
  • After reading the instructions I read that the blade should have a mirror finish but it is not even close to that on either blade.
    • The mirror finished is definitely not the case with the HP-8 iron. I believe this might have been a mistake in the manual as the instructions were from the original HP-8 planes manual (designed by John) which might have been mirror polished at one point. Apologies on this one!
  • The 50 degree blade also did not seat right in the mini honing guide and I checked it and it is ground to a 32.5 degree bevel.
    • Could you elaborate on how the blade didn't sit right in the mini honing guide? If you purchased the 50* degree blade, then there should be a red setup block that allows you to set it up with the mini honing guide. The mini honing guide is designed for the default blade that came with the HP-8 plane which is 30 degrees. To utilize the mini honing guide with the 50* degree iron, you need the red setup block to raise the angle (as seen in 1st photo). If set up correctly for the 50* iron, only the front brass roller will be making contact with the surface (as seen in 2nd photo). Note that we are only sharpening the MICRO-bevel and not the actual bevel. Also have to consider that the plane is beveled up and the plane body has an angle (or slope) as well, so the actual angle of iron is not "50 degrees" per se. 50* degree is the attack angle of the iron once in the plane... hope this makes sense.
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  • The next thing I noticed is the bottom of the plane looks ground to about 60 grit and is pretty rough.
    • For the sole, if you run your nails across the sole (perpendicular to the sanding pattern). Are your nails getting caught?
      • If yes, then I'll have to send you a replacement as this is definitely a problem. Out of the box, the sole should be smooth!
  • The last thing I noticed is that in order to get the blade to protrude far enough to cut. The mouth adjustment has to be completely open rendering it pointless.
    • The opening (throat) should be very narrow with a brand new iron. The purpose of the mouth adjustment piece is to allow you to make adjustments over time when you wear the iron down (from sharpening and usage). This is also the reason why there's a 2nd hole added to the iron as well. Short answer is... You are correct. Straight out of the box, the mouth adjustment is pointless but will be needed over time!